A guide to Bogotá

Bogotá, by someone who lives here

60 places I actually send people to — where I take my family, my friends and, once, every guest at my wedding. No paid placements, no filler.

Last updated: · version history

Bogotá, in my words

Bogotá doesn't give a shit what you think about her. She's too busy growing, living and trying not to collapse under the weight of her own gravity.

Embrace it and accept Bogotá for who she is and a whole world of wonder can open itself up to you — a city rich in culture and natural beauty emerging from the concrete shadows. Try and avoid Bogotá's harsh reality and she will chew you up, spit you out and send you back from whence you came.

What makes her special is optionality. If I wanted to eat at Prudencia or Mesa Franca — for my money two of the best restaurants in Colombia — I could probably eat there today, or maybe I'd have to wait until tomorrow. A thirty-minute walk from the centre of the city and I'm showering in a 40-metre Andean waterfall; an hour-long flight and I'm at the Caribbean sea.

Bogotá is a place for living. The Saturday night to Sunday morning transition is unmatched: the overlapping parches of punks, hippies, preppy Latino elites and hardcore rumberos who give the city its electric nightlife reluctantly give way to the early-bird mountain cyclists and fresh-fruit vendors who line the streets for the weekly ciclovía.

More of my writing on Bogotá: Magical Realism in the Bogotá Gastronomic Scene · Bogotá in 2020

The map

What
Where
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Mountains up, north to the left — the way a Bogotano navigates. Drag to move around. · Map data © OpenStreetMap
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Plans

Itineraries built from places on the list. Each one opens in Google Maps with every stop loaded.

Sunday, 8am – 3pm

The perfect Sunday

Ciclovía + brunch + the Usaquén flea market — a Sunday plan that is very hard to beat. The city shines brightest from Saturday night through Sunday at 2pm.

MASA → Parque El Virrey → Parque de la 93 → Mercado de las Pulgas de Usaquén
Any day but Monday (museums close) · book Prudencia ahead

The Centro in a day

Market breakfast, the old town on foot, the best lunch in the country, and the sunset from 3,152 metres.

Plaza de Paloquemao → Plaza de Bolívar → Museo Botero → Prudencia → Museo del Oro → MAMBO — Museo de Arte Moderno → Monserrate
Thursday – Saturday, from 6pm

A Chapinero Alto night

Everything here is within a ten-minute walk, which is the point: vermouth, dinner at one of the best tables in Colombia, viche, records, and — if you can't stop — Theatron.

Sur Vermutería → Mesa Franca → Cocodrilo — Café Bar Vichería → Paradisco — Bar de Escucha → Theatron
Friday or Saturday, from 6pm

A big night out

Wine as the sun goes down, dinner, a viche cocktail once it gets going — don't get to Cocodrilo before 10pm — and then one of the two great clubs of Bogotá.

Atlas → Mesa Franca → Cocodrilo — Café Bar Vichería → Kinder Club → Theatron
Friday or Saturday night

A night in San Felipe

Playing tejo — Colombia's explosive version of cornhole — and then going for drinks at KB, a gallery-cum-bar with DJs and a karaoke room. Great for a big group.

Club de Tejo 76 → KB
Any morning

The coffee & bakery crawl

Good Colombian coffee is as good as any coffee in the world, and it is grown a few hours from here. A caffeinated walk north from Chapinero Alto.

Almendro → Árbol del Pan → Libertario Coffee Roasters → Tropicalia Coffee — Quinta Camacho → Tropicalia Coffee — Nogal → Azahar Coffee — Parque 93

Every place

La Candelaria & Centro · 9

The Centro is a great place to visit, not a place to stay. Lots of culture, lots of history, lots of cobbled streets — the museum and historical centre of the city. Aside from Prudencia, it's not where you'll find the best food in Bogotá, but if you're visiting for the first time you will invariably end up in La Candelaria. So see the best sights, and get back up north.

  • Casa del Rey Colombian barbecue Google Maps ↗ Colombian barbecue in a stunningly converted colonial house. It is where I got married — but it's also just a great place for a Sunday lunch with family. Check whether they have events on, too: I've been to a few fun DJ nights there.
  • Plaza de La Perseverancia Market food hall Google Maps ↗ Fun: lots of different food stalls selling lots of different variations of Colombian cuisine. Lots of ajiaco, Bogotá's traditional dish, but also some very good comida costeña — including an encocado de mar from Mama Luz, who has a famous stand there. It's busy, but it moves quite quickly, and it's worth checking out if you're looking for local cuisine.
  • Plaza de Paloquemao Eat Google Maps ↗ The best produce market I've visited anywhere in South America. Spend a morning discovering fruits you never knew existed, then sit down at one of the little bars inside and wash the new flavours down with an avena — or a mid-morning beer, as the vendors do.
  • Prudencia Wood-fire tasting menu · lunch only Google Maps ↗ For my money one of the two best restaurants in Colombia. Only open at lunch, with a five-to-seven-course menu. It's not cheap, but it is incredible. The chef, Mario, is one of a kind: he cooks everything con leña — over a wood fire — and the quality of the produce is superb. It is a world-class restaurant, and I can't recommend the experience enough.
  • MAMBO — Museo de Arte Moderno Art & culture Google Maps ↗ The modern art museum. Worth checking out if you're into museums — although only if you're into museums.
  • Museo Botero Art & culture Google Maps ↗ Botero's works alongside his personal collection — Picassos and Dalís included — in a beautiful colonial house in La Candelaria. Free to enter, with a nice coffee shop at the back.
  • Museo del Oro Art & culture Google Maps ↗ Go — but please don't leave thinking some pieces of gold from hundreds of years ago are the epitome of Bogotano culture. The living version is on the walls and in the galleries.
  • Plaza de Bolívar Art & culture Google Maps ↗ The main square of Bogotá. Nothing to write home about, but it is the centre of the city.
  • Monserrate Outdoors & play Google Maps ↗ The one tourist activity that you just have to do in Bogotá. If you're okay at the altitude and haven't suffered since arriving, I recommend hiking up and taking the cable car down. If you can't or don't want to hike in the morning, still take the cable car up: the view at the top is spectacular, and the air is very pure.

Chapinero Alto & Zona G · 36

Chapinero Alto — especially between Calle 53 and Calle 65 — is the gem of Bogotá. The coolest people live in the neighbourhood and the food is the most creative. On a sunny afternoon there is no better place in the world to be, and you can live an entire life in a ten-block radius and be incredibly content. It's not a place for a family, although everybody has a dog or a cat — it's a place for cool 20- and 30-somethings. I don't see myself leaving for the foreseeable future.

  • Afluente Creative fine dining Google Maps ↗ I struggled with Afluente at first because of the name, which to me implied wealth and affluence. But on trying it I was blown away by its creativity. It's very near the top of my list for high-end creative dining in Bogotá right now, in 2026.
  • Café Bar Universal Bistro Google Maps ↗ Just a world-class bistro. I always try to get the whole fish, which is for sharing between two or three people, but the steak frites are probably the best in Bogotá. The place is impeccable: good music, good vibes, good natural light during the day and nice low lighting in the evening. Great for a date, great for a business meeting.
  • Flora Italian-inspired pasta Google Maps ↗ A stunning restaurant that would fit in well in London or New York. The menu is relatively simple, but everything is exquisitely well done. Not Colombian at all, and not traditional Italian — just a delicious Italian-inspired pasta restaurant.
  • Ganzō Modern Chinese Google Maps ↗ Modern Chinese with really good music — there's a whole scene. You need to make a reservation, and try to go earlier: people at the first sitting tend to stay, so tables don't free up for the late second one.
  • Híbrido Restaurant & bakery Google Maps ↗
  • Insurgentes Taco Bar Eat Google Maps ↗ Such a cool location, with great music in the evening — come for the vibe. The fried avocado tacos are still very good, but these days I actually prefer the camarones al diablo, and the fried cauliflower with avocado.
  • Mesa Franca Eat Google Maps ↗ Best group dinner in Bogotá, and for my money one of the two best restaurants in Colombia. The tostadas de atún are my all-time favourite — expensive, but 100% worth it. Make a reservation online, and order a cocktail with viche.
  • Pizza BarVi Pizza & vinyl DJs Google Maps ↗ Tasty pizza, but it's more about the vibe: there's usually a vinyl DJ playing while you eat. A great spot for a date, or a one-on-one catch-up with a friend.
  • Salón Tropical Caribbean-coast Colombian Google Maps ↗ The Caribbean-coast sibling of Café Bar Universal, from the same group. A great place to take people visiting Colombia who want a sense of Colombian cuisine that isn't Andean mountain food like ajiaco — it's real costeño food, very well done. Lots of live music, which is a great vibe. Quite expensive, and quite loud, so I only go occasionally — but it's fun.
  • Salvo Patria Eat Google Maps ↗ Salvo Patria holds a special place in my heart as one of the reasons I moved to Colombia — I first tried it in 2016. The menu blends inventiveness with a warmth and comfort you don't typically find in Colombian high-end restaurants. Always get the agnolotti.
  • Sauvage French-Colombian kitchen Google Maps ↗ A creative kitchen in Quinta Camacho with French-Colombian influences. It's not as fancy as some of the other high-end spots — a good place for a casual creative dinner rather than a fancy creative dinner.
  • Selma Mediterranean bistro Google Maps ↗ Chef Álvaro Clavijo's restaurant that I actually prefer to El Chato, his more renowned, award-winning one. Selma is Mediterranean-inspired. It's not cheap, but it's very, very, very good: creative, with good cocktails. A great place for a date, or for a just mind-blowing meal in Bogotá. I can't recommend it enough.
  • Wu Dumplings & Beer Dumplings Google Maps ↗ A hole in the wall, and nothing fancy, but delicious dumplings — and a great change of pace from some of the other spots I recommend.
  • Atlas Wine bar Google Maps ↗ The coolest wine bar in the neighbourhood, and where the in crowd tends to hang. If you can't get a table, people spill over into the bars next door, or across the road at Lele, which is also a good aperitivo bar. Atlas recently expanded, and it's just a whole scene.
  • Bikinis Cocktails & small plates Google Maps ↗ Still relatively new, and the more hip one with the in crowd. Stunning aesthetics, by the same people behind Café Bar Universal. They do full food, but I recommend it for drinks — a great place for a cocktail and small bites.
  • Cocodrilo — Café Bar Vichería Drink & dance Google Maps ↗ One of my sleeper hits in the neighbourhood. You have to cross the Séptima and brave Parque de los Hippies, but the bar has really good vibes on a Friday or Saturday night. Don't go too early: go after dinner but before going somewhere else — 10pm onwards. Good music, a place to dance or to sit down with a cocktail. Have a viche-based one.
  • Fantasma Jazz club Google Maps ↗ New York-style jazz in Bogotá — and I think they almost pull it off. Definitely the best place to see jazz in the city. Good cocktails, and I've enjoyed the steak tartare. They do flamenco nights on Wednesdays, which is fun, and most Fridays it's the house band, who are very talented.
  • FRANC Wine bar Google Maps ↗ My wife's and my local wine bar. It's almost as cool as Atlas — maybe just as cool — but slightly more casual. On Saturdays they have a DJ, and the vibes are always on point. It's in front of the park, a great place to catch the last of the sunlight and the start of the evening in Chapinero Alto, and the service is really friendly. The food is just okay, but the drinks are great.
  • Jardín — Tragos y Pasteles Cocktail garden Google Maps ↗ Just a cool spot, with cool people. A semi-industrial vibe, but in the back garden of an almost English-Tudor-style house — you feel transported away from the city when you go in. Good creative drinks, and a great place to go earlier in the evening, before dinner or before your after-dinner plans.
  • Kinder Club Nightclub Google Maps ↗ Maybe the premier nightlife destination in Bogotá on a Friday or Saturday night. It is everything right about Bogotá nightlife: a massive venue with just impeccable vibes across its different ambiences, from techno to 80s music. I can't recommend it highly enough.
  • La Sala de Laura Drink & dance Google Maps ↗
  • Lele Aperitivo bar Google Maps ↗ A good aperitivo bar across the road from Atlas — where people spill over to when Atlas is full.
  • Paradisco — Bar de Escucha Speakeasy listening bar Google Maps ↗ My favourite speakeasy and my favourite place to end a night in Zona G. It's above a wine bar; the music taste is very eclectic, but there's always a good vibe. There's a cover. And upstairs they now have a speakeasy within a speakeasy: Petit Comité, the cocktail spot of Tom Hydzik, barman and part of the founding team at Mesa Franca — just insanely cool, and my favourite place to finish the night in the area.
  • Siga Wine, cocktails & food Google Maps ↗ A quintessential Quinta Camacho spot for wine, cocktails and food — although I typically go there more to drink than to eat.
  • Sur Vermutería Argentine bar — negronis & choripán Google Maps ↗ An Argentine spot with a variety of negronis, choripanes and other Argentine delicacies. Good vibes, good music, a local hangout — nothing fancy.
  • Theatron Drink & dance Google Maps ↗ Theatron is an experience — there are no other words for it. I recommend it for the more adventurous straight people, and definitely for anybody who's gay. It is a unique place in Latin America, maybe in the world, and it's so big you could get lost in there. The Iglesia del Perreo is a sight to behold. I won't ruin the surprise any more than that.
  • Almendro Pastry shop Google Maps ↗ My favourite pastry spot in Chapi Alto, especially on the sweeter side. Jorge catered the desserts at my wedding, and his pastel de nata is better than ones I've had in Portugal. Recommended for afternoon coffee and pastries — the medialunas are delicious too.
  • Árbol del Pan Bakery Google Maps ↗ Has a lot more soul than MASA. It is clearly a passion project of its owner, and it has thrived over the eight years I've been in Bogotá — expanding to two locations, and a bigger space for the first one. The quiche is amazing, the croissants are the best in Bogotá, and I love the granola they make in-house.
  • Libertario Coffee Roasters Coffee & bakeries Google Maps ↗ A very pretty place to have a coffee and read a book. Not a co-working coffee shop — but it's very good coffee, in a beautiful environment to enjoy it over a chat with a friend.
  • MASA Bakery-café Google Maps ↗ The quintessential modern Bogotá hangout spot: good bread, a clean, minimal aesthetic, and nothing that will blow you away, but everything's very good. Just a nice place for breakfast or lunch. I buy a lot of my bread there.
  • Tropicalia Coffee — Quinta Camacho Coffee & bakeries Google Maps ↗ My favourite coffee shop in Bogotá, voted No. 1 in South America's 100 Best Coffee Shops 2025 — and ninth in the world. It's a coffee shop for the mainstream rather than for real coffee nerds, but that doesn't take away from the fact that they have an incredible coffee program: you can consistently get some of the best coffee in Colombia here, and enjoy delicious food, in one of their two beautiful locations — where you can work, meet, or read a book.
  • Quebrada La Vieja Cloud-forest hike Google Maps ↗ My wife's and my favourite hike — we regularly go twice a week. Important: you can only get in in the morning, with a reservation that you make through the Bogotá water company's site. Once you're in, there are three different paths from the main intersection, and the Alto de la Cruz route, if it's open, is stunning — my favourite regular hike in Bogotá. If you don't want to sign up ahead, you can pay an entry fee to do Las Moyas instead: a different hike, open to anybody with no reservation, also stunning, but challenging. Reserve your slot — Caminos de los Cerros Orientales ↗
  • NADA Bookshop & local art Google Maps ↗ The edgier, more progressive side of Colombia, with a lot of local books and art. A great place to peruse and get a sense of Bogotá's more creative subcultures — and a good place to shop for a gift.
  • Santo & Seña Bookshop & vinyl Google Maps ↗ Probably the coolest bookshop-slash-vinyl shop in the neighbourhood. Worth visiting just for itself, to browse and see the space — and they have a little gift shop too if you're not specifically book shopping.
  • Four Seasons Casa Medina Stay Google Maps ↗ Reasonably priced compared to Four Seasons elsewhere in the world, so it's more accessible — and it is a stunning building. It's what I'd recommend for anybody looking for real comfort in Bogotá, which isn't necessarily a comfortable city.
  • HAB Hotel Stay Google Maps ↗ For the younger crowd — 20- and 30-somethings who want to have fun, eat well and maybe go out in Chapinero.

Nogal, Virrey & la 93 · 12

  • Attic & Keller Mediterranean gastrobar Google Maps ↗
  • Antenna Bar & club with a roof deck Google Maps ↗ A recent discovery of mine, and my other go-to in the Zona T. A slightly younger crowd, in their twenties, but the music — at least in my experience — leans towards the 80s, which is a good vibe. Great roof deck and very cool decor.
  • El Coq Bar & club Google Maps ↗ One of my two go-to spots in the Zona T for a night out. El Coq has always been good on a Thursday night. It draws people from all over the city, because you're in the Zona T — but it's still a cool spot, not super mainstream.
  • Azahar Coffee — Parque 93 Coffee & bakeries Google Maps ↗ A wonderful coffee shop for business meetings, or just for working in a light, airy environment with good coffee. If you're in the 93, go to Azahar, not Libertario.
  • Tropicalia Coffee — Nogal Coffee & bakeries Google Maps ↗ My favourite coffee shop in Bogotá, voted No. 1 in South America's 100 Best Coffee Shops 2025 — and ninth in the world. It's a coffee shop for the mainstream rather than for real coffee nerds, but that doesn't take away from the fact that they have an incredible coffee program: you can consistently get some of the best coffee in Colombia here, and enjoy delicious food, in one of their two beautiful locations — where you can work, meet, or read a book.
  • KB Gallery & bar Google Maps ↗ A gallery-cum-bar with a very cool vibe, and the house itself is just cool. They usually have DJs on Friday and Saturday nights, and there's a karaoke room you can rent, which is great for a big group. It pairs really well with Club de Tejo 76 for a night in San Felipe.
  • Club de Tejo 76 Outdoors & play Google Maps ↗ Tejo is Colombia's explosive version of cornhole. A fun night in San Felipe is playing tejo here, then going for drinks at KB. Recommended.
  • Las Moyas Mountain hike Google Maps ↗ If you don't want to sign up ahead for a hike, you can pay an entry fee to do Las Moyas: open to anybody, no reservation, you just need to buy entry. It's stunning, but challenging.
  • Parque de la 93 Outdoors & play Google Maps ↗ The principal destination for high-end shopping and restaurants in Bogotá. It's also the most exclusive business area in the city — so it's not cool.
  • Parque El Virrey Outdoors & play Google Maps ↗ Just a lovely place to go for a walk — a classic urban park.
  • Calle de los Anticuarios Design & artisan shopping street Google Maps ↗ Not a plan for young people looking to have fun. What it is: some of the best eclectic artisan goods made in Colombia — clothes, furniture, art and handmade pieces. They're expensive, but they're beautiful. A place of high-end taste, and a lovely street to walk down.
  • RPM Records Shop Google Maps ↗

Usaquén · 2

Historically a town outside Bogotá that was subsumed by the city's growth, Usaquén retains a town-like vibe. The Sunday market is the highlight: if you're looking for a plan on a Sunday, look no further than walking the market and enjoying good food in Usaquén.

Out west · 1

  • Jardín Botánico Outdoors & play Google Maps ↗ It has a stunning tropicario, which replicates the environment of the Amazon and is well worth your time. Outside the main enclosed buildings, the grounds themselves are nothing to write home about, but very pleasant to walk around, and it's pretty cheap. The botanical gardens — or Simón Bolívar, the main central park — are well worth half a day, but not if you're strapped for time.

Quick answers

What is the best restaurant in Bogotá for a group dinner?
  • Mesa Franca: “Best group dinner in Bogotá, and for my money one of the two best restaurants in Colombia. The tostadas de atún are my all-time favourite — expensive, but 100% worth it. Make a reservation online, and order a cocktail with viche.”
What are the best fine-dining and tasting-menu restaurants in Bogotá?
  • Prudencia: “For my money one of the two best restaurants in Colombia. Only open at lunch, with a five-to-seven-course menu. It's not cheap, but it is incredible. The chef, Mario, is one of a kind: he cooks everything con leña — over a wood fire — and the quality of the produce is superb. It is a world-class restaurant, and I can't recommend the experience enough.”
  • Afluente: “I struggled with Afluente at first because of the name, which to me implied wealth and affluence. But on trying it I was blown away by its creativity. It's very near the top of my list for high-end creative dining in Bogotá right now, in 2026.”
  • Selma: “Chef Álvaro Clavijo's restaurant that I actually prefer to El Chato, his more renowned, award-winning one. Selma is Mediterranean-inspired. It's not cheap, but it's very, very, very good: creative, with good cocktails. A great place for a date, or for a just mind-blowing meal in Bogotá. I can't recommend it enough.”
  • Salvo Patria: “Salvo Patria holds a special place in my heart as one of the reasons I moved to Colombia — I first tried it in 2016. The menu blends inventiveness with a warmth and comfort you don't typically find in Colombian high-end restaurants. Always get the agnolotti.”
Where is the best coffee in Bogotá?
  • Tropicalia Coffee — Quinta Camacho: “My favourite coffee shop in Bogotá, voted No. 1 in South America's 100 Best Coffee Shops 2025 — and ninth in the world. It's a coffee shop for the mainstream rather than for real coffee nerds, but that doesn't take away from the fact that they have an incredible coffee program: you can consistently get some of the best coffee in Colombia here, and enjoy delicious food, in one of their two beautiful locations — where you can work, meet, or read a book.”
  • Libertario Coffee Roasters: “A very pretty place to have a coffee and read a book. Not a co-working coffee shop — but it's very good coffee, in a beautiful environment to enjoy it over a chat with a friend.”
  • Azahar Coffee — Parque 93: “A wonderful coffee shop for business meetings, or just for working in a light, airy environment with good coffee. If you're in the 93, go to Azahar, not Libertario.”
What is the best bakery in Bogotá?
  • Árbol del Pan: “Has a lot more soul than MASA. It is clearly a passion project of its owner, and it has thrived over the eight years I've been in Bogotá — expanding to two locations, and a bigger space for the first one. The quiche is amazing, the croissants are the best in Bogotá, and I love the granola they make in-house.”
  • Almendro: “My favourite pastry spot in Chapi Alto, especially on the sweeter side. Jorge catered the desserts at my wedding, and his pastel de nata is better than ones I've had in Portugal. Recommended for afternoon coffee and pastries — the medialunas are delicious too.”
  • MASA: “The quintessential modern Bogotá hangout spot: good bread, a clean, minimal aesthetic, and nothing that will blow you away, but everything's very good. Just a nice place for breakfast or lunch. I buy a lot of my bread there.”
Where should I go out at night in Bogotá — best clubs and bars?
  • Kinder Club: “Maybe the premier nightlife destination in Bogotá on a Friday or Saturday night. It is everything right about Bogotá nightlife: a massive venue with just impeccable vibes across its different ambiences, from techno to 80s music. I can't recommend it highly enough.”
  • Theatron: “Theatron is an experience — there are no other words for it. I recommend it for the more adventurous straight people, and definitely for anybody who's gay. It is a unique place in Latin America, maybe in the world, and it's so big you could get lost in there. The Iglesia del Perreo is a sight to behold. I won't ruin the surprise any more than that.”
  • Cocodrilo — Café Bar Vichería: “One of my sleeper hits in the neighbourhood. You have to cross the Séptima and brave Parque de los Hippies, but the bar has really good vibes on a Friday or Saturday night. Don't go too early: go after dinner but before going somewhere else — 10pm onwards. Good music, a place to dance or to sit down with a cocktail. Have a viche-based one.”
  • Paradisco — Bar de Escucha: “My favourite speakeasy and my favourite place to end a night in Zona G. It's above a wine bar; the music taste is very eclectic, but there's always a good vibe. There's a cover. And upstairs they now have a speakeasy within a speakeasy: Petit Comité, the cocktail spot of Tom Hydzik, barman and part of the founding team at Mesa Franca — just insanely cool, and my favourite place to finish the night in the area.”
What is the best wine bar in Bogotá?
  • Atlas: “The coolest wine bar in the neighbourhood, and where the in crowd tends to hang. If you can't get a table, people spill over into the bars next door, or across the road at Lele, which is also a good aperitivo bar. Atlas recently expanded, and it's just a whole scene.”
  • FRANC: “My wife's and my local wine bar. It's almost as cool as Atlas — maybe just as cool — but slightly more casual. On Saturdays they have a DJ, and the vibes are always on point. It's in front of the park, a great place to catch the last of the sunlight and the start of the evening in Chapinero Alto, and the service is really friendly. The food is just okay, but the drinks are great.”
Where can I hear live jazz in Bogotá?
  • Fantasma: “New York-style jazz in Bogotá — and I think they almost pull it off. Definitely the best place to see jazz in the city. Good cocktails, and I've enjoyed the steak tartare. They do flamenco nights on Wednesdays, which is fun, and most Fridays it's the house band, who are very talented.”
What are the best hikes in Bogotá, and do I need a reservation?
  • Quebrada La Vieja: “My wife's and my favourite hike — we regularly go twice a week. Important: you can only get in in the morning, with a reservation that you make through the Bogotá water company's site. Once you're in, there are three different paths from the main intersection, and the Alto de la Cruz route, if it's open, is stunning — my favourite regular hike in Bogotá. If you don't want to sign up ahead, you can pay an entry fee to do Las Moyas instead: a different hike, open to anybody with no reservation, also stunning, but challenging.”
  • Las Moyas: “If you don't want to sign up ahead for a hike, you can pay an entry fee to do Las Moyas: open to anybody, no reservation, you just need to buy entry. It's stunning, but challenging.”
  • Santa Ana – La Aguadora: “A classic Usaquén hike. As with Quebrada La Vieja, you sign up through the water company's site.”
  • Monserrate: “The one tourist activity that you just have to do in Bogotá. If you're okay at the altitude and haven't suffered since arriving, I recommend hiking up and taking the cable car down. If you can't or don't want to hike in the morning, still take the cable car up: the view at the top is spectacular, and the air is very pure.”
Should I hike Monserrate or take the cable car?
  • Monserrate: “The one tourist activity that you just have to do in Bogotá. If you're okay at the altitude and haven't suffered since arriving, I recommend hiking up and taking the cable car down. If you can't or don't want to hike in the morning, still take the cable car up: the view at the top is spectacular, and the air is very pure.”
Where should I eat Colombian food in Bogotá as a first-time visitor?
  • Salón Tropical: “The Caribbean-coast sibling of Café Bar Universal, from the same group. A great place to take people visiting Colombia who want a sense of Colombian cuisine that isn't Andean mountain food like ajiaco — it's real costeño food, very well done. Lots of live music, which is a great vibe. Quite expensive, and quite loud, so I only go occasionally — but it's fun.”
  • Plaza de La Perseverancia: “Fun: lots of different food stalls selling lots of different variations of Colombian cuisine. Lots of ajiaco, Bogotá's traditional dish, but also some very good comida costeña — including an encocado de mar from Mama Luz, who has a famous stand there. It's busy, but it moves quite quickly, and it's worth checking out if you're looking for local cuisine.”
  • Casa del Rey: “Colombian barbecue in a stunningly converted colonial house. It is where I got married — but it's also just a great place for a Sunday lunch with family. Check whether they have events on, too: I've been to a few fun DJ nights there.”
  • Plaza de Paloquemao: “The best produce market I've visited anywhere in South America. Spend a morning discovering fruits you never knew existed, then sit down at one of the little bars inside and wash the new flavours down with an avena — or a mid-morning beer, as the vendors do.”
Which hotel should I stay at in Bogotá?
  • HAB Hotel: “For the younger crowd — 20- and 30-somethings who want to have fun, eat well and maybe go out in Chapinero.”
  • Four Seasons Casa Medina: “Reasonably priced compared to Four Seasons elsewhere in the world, so it's more accessible — and it is a stunning building. It's what I'd recommend for anybody looking for real comfort in Bogotá, which isn't necessarily a comfortable city.”
What is the best neighbourhood in Bogotá to stay and eat in?
  • Chapinero Alto — especially between Calle 53 and Calle 65 — is the gem of Bogotá. The coolest people live in the neighbourhood and the food is the most creative. On a sunny afternoon there is no better place in the world to be, and you can live an entire life in a ten-block radius and be incredibly content. It's not a place for a family, although everybody has a dog or a cat — it's a place for cool 20- and 30-somethings. I don't see myself leaving for the foreseeable future.
Is La Candelaria worth visiting, and should I stay there?
  • The Centro is a great place to visit, not a place to stay. Lots of culture, lots of history, lots of cobbled streets — the museum and historical centre of the city. Aside from Prudencia, it's not where you'll find the best food in Bogotá, but if you're visiting for the first time you will invariably end up in La Candelaria. So see the best sights, and get back up north.
What should I do in Bogotá on a Sunday?
  • Historically a town outside Bogotá that was subsumed by the city's growth, Usaquén retains a town-like vibe. The Sunday market is the highlight: if you're looking for a plan on a Sunday, look no further than walking the market and enjoying good food in Usaquén.
  • Mercado de las Pulgas de Usaquén: “A huge artisan market every Sunday in a lovely neighbourhood that was its own town until Bogotá swallowed it. Ciclovía + brunch + the Usaquén flea market is a Sunday plan that is very hard to beat.”

Version history

This guide is alive: I review it every quarter. Places join when they earn it and leave when they stop deserving it.

  1. First public edition: 60 places, grown out of the map I made for our wedding guests.

For agents and the curious: markdown · JSON · KML — every place and plan has a `.md` twin too.

Agent-readable — llms.txt · facts · JSON-LD