My favourite pastry spot in Chapi Alto, especially on the sweeter side. Jorge catered the desserts at my wedding, and his pastel de nata is better than ones I've had in Portugal. Recommended for afternoon coffee and pastries — the medialunas are delicious too.
GanzōModern Chinese60 mModern Chinese with really good music — there's a whole scene. You need to make a reservation, and try to go earlier: people at the first sitting tend to stay, so tables don't free up for the late second one.
Santo & SeñaBookshop & vinyl90 mProbably the coolest bookshop-slash-vinyl shop in the neighbourhood. Worth visiting just for itself, to browse and see the space — and they have a little gift shop too if you're not specifically book shopping.
Insurgentes Taco BarEat160 mSuch a cool location, with great music in the evening — come for the vibe. The fried avocado tacos are still very good, but these days I actually prefer the camarones al diablo, and the fried cauliflower with avocado.
AtlasWine bar210 mThe coolest wine bar in the neighbourhood, and where the in crowd tends to hang. If you can't get a table, people spill over into the bars next door, or across the road at Lele, which is also a good aperitivo bar. Atlas recently expanded, and it's just a whole scene.